St. Gero

Still

Still waters - those that have no carbonation - are preferred by sixty-five percent of Americans when eating. The Spanish share this preference, whereas sparkling waters are favored in Italy. Still water is perfect with any food, but a little variety can go a long way. With still waters, we can engage in a dialogue about sources and minerality and focus on the differences in based on their terroirs. It is important to resist the temptation to pour still water over ice—especially ice made with tap water. If you prefer your bottled water with ice, for full enjoyment make sure the ice is made with the same water.

Recommended Serving Temperature: 54°F (12°C)
Carbonation: 0 mg/l

Effervescent

Effervescent waters are an epicurean surprise to many. These sophisticated waters, with the smallest possible bubbles, straddle a line between still and light sparkling waters. In some instances these waters lose their sparkle very quickly, and some are almost still. Many naturally carbonated waters (such as Badoit) fall into this category. Drinking water that is almost flat but has a hint of carbonation (and thus a hint of mouthfeel) offers a new sensation to many people. Use this element of surprise to contrast or support a dish with a water pairing.

Recommended Serving Temperature: 56°F (13°C)
Carbonation: 0-2.5 mg/l

Light

These waters draw attention. Many people who claim they don’t like sparkling water at all love light sparkling waters. If you are srving a dish with a subtle mouthfeel—for example, a perfectly pan-seared fish—a light sparkling water would be a perfect choice. It gives texture but does not overpower the presentation.

Recommended Serving Temperature: 58°F (14°C)
Carbonation: 2.5-5 mg/l

Classic

Classic is what most people think of when they talk about a sparkling water. Many high mineral content waters fall into this category. Classic waters are the workhorses of food and water pairing. Their mouthfeel matches many dishes perfectly, which makes them a safe bet. Classic waters are also perfect for mixed drinks, especially wine spritzers. In selecting specific classic waters to pair with food, note the mineral content. A classic water with a low TDS is a good choice for mixed drinks, while one with a higher TDS would be the perfect choice with steak.

Recommended Serving Temperature: 60°F (16°C)
Carbonation: 5-7.5 mg/l

Bold

Expect bold, large, and loud bubbles. Bold waters sometimes create a fireworks in your mouth kind of feeling. The spacing between bubbles creates significant differences among various brands of bottled water. Some waters feel fizzy, whereas others are bold in a silent way. Served too cold, the bubbles can be overwhelming. (If people say they don’t like sparkling water, this is usually what they mean.) Served closer to room temperature, the bubbles calm down. You can also use a spoon to stir the water to reduce the effect of the carbonation; opening the bottle and allowing the water to breathe will also reduce some of the effect, if desired. Careful matching with food is required if bold waters are to be enjoyed while dining. The strong sensation created by the large bubbles can distract from subtle foods or those with little or no mouthfeel. On the other hand, the bubbles can sometimes be used to contrast with subtle foods and give them texture. Bold waters are perfect at the beginning of a meal, preferably with crispy appetizers.

Recommended Serving Temperature: 62°F (17°C)
Carbonation: larger then 7.5 mg/l

Virginality indicates how protected a water is from its surroundings. It is determined by the water’s level of nitrate, an inorganic compound made up of one nitrogen atom and three oxygen atoms. Nitrate is easily carried through soil by water.

The substance can leach into the ground below the root zone through heavy rainfall or irrigation, and it may subsequently find its way into groundwater. In its natural state, water has less than 1 mg/l of nitrate; higher levels typically reveal a compromised water. This contamination may come from fertilizer, animal waste products, decaying plant matter, septic tanks, or sewage treatment systems. Only testing can determine nitrate levels in water, as nitrate has no taste, odor, or color.

The ability of blood to carry oxygen throughout the body may be impaired by very high nitrate contamination in drinking water; this may case methemoglobinemia (also known as blue baby syndrome). Cancer, disruption of thyroid function, birth defects, and miscarriages are other health risks posed by high levels of nitrate.

The World Health Organization recommends that exposure to nitrate should not exceed 50 mg/l for short periods. In the United States, drinking water may not contain more than 10 mg/l of nitrate, a level determined by a study in 1951 of infants suffering from blue baby syndrome. I use the following system of icons to describe the Virginality of bottled water:

Distillation, reverse osmosis, and ion exchange can each remove nitrate from water; several manufacturers offer equipment to apply these techniques to home drinking water. Nitrate is not removed by standard water softeners or filters, including carbon adsorption filters, and boiling water actually increases the concentration of nitrate.

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) & Minerality

The TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) value of water tells us how many parts per million (ppm) - or milligrams per litre (mg/l) - are left after the water in question is heated to 180 degrees Celcius, until completely condensed. The minerals in the water cannot evaporate and stay behind. The higher the TDS, the higher the amount of minerals in the water. Water with a very high TDS usually has a more intense taste, a bolder feel and can have an aftertaste.
Regulations regarding TDS vary throughout the world. In the US, bottled water must contain at least 250 mg/l TDS to be labeled as a mineral water. Tapwater has multiple functions (like washing and cleaning) that require it to have a relative low TDS.

The minerality of water can be divided into the following groups:

Calcium & Magnesium

Calcium and magnesium levels combine to determine the mineral water’s “hardness” (for the exact formula, see the table below). Bottled water is naturally soft, thanks to low levels of calcium and magnesium. Higher levels are often found in municipal water, which is often “softened”—particularly in the United States—to be used at home.

The taste of water is impacted heavily by softening.

Hard Water

Hard tap water makes cleaning more difficult and more dependent on soaps and synthetic detergents. Scaling in boilers and teakettles comes from hard water. But hard water does not pose any danger to your health: According to the U.S. National Research Council, the magupnesium and calcium in hard water can actually contribute to your daily dietary requirements.

Soft Water

Water is softened with an ion-exchange water softener, which adds sodium (salt) to the water. About 8 mg/l of sodium are added for every grain of hardness (17.1 mg/l) taken out. Water softening accustoms most Americans to slightly salty water. In the United States, water hardness is not regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency. Instead the Department of the Interior and the international Water Quality Association offer the following classifications:

Hardness can be calculated with this formula (calcium and magnesium should be measured in milligrams per liter): HARDNESS = (calcium x 2.5) + (magnesium x 4)